Ushuaia Travel Guide: Luxury Lodges, King Crab and Penguins at the End of the World

Photo: Hiroki Ogawa / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)

Jet Set LatAM · Destination Guide

Ushuaia bills itself as the end of the world, and the setting earns it: a colorful port town squeezed between the snow-streaked Martial mountains and the Beagle Channel, with sea lions on the rocks and Antarctica just across the Drake Passage.

This Ushuaia travel guide covers where to stay, what to book and what to eat, whether you’re here for a few days or boarding an Antarctic expedition.

Where to stay

Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa sits high on a forested hill inside a nature reserve, with an indoor-outdoor pool facing the channel. Los Cauquenes Resort is right on the shore of the Beagle Channel, and Cilene del Faro is a smaller boutique hotel on the waterfront close to town. All three give you the views that make Ushuaia unforgettable.

The Beagle Channel and the penguins

Sail the Beagle Channel past the red-and-white Les Éclaireurs lighthouse and islands crowded with sea lions and cormorants. From roughly October to March, a limited number of visitors can walk among Magellanic and gentoo penguins on Isla Martillo with the operator permitted to land there; book well ahead.

Tierra del Fuego National Park

Just west of town, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego offers coastal trails, peat bogs and lenga forests. The End of the World Train, a heritage railway built on the route of the old prison line, runs into the park. Hikers love the trail to Laguna Esmeralda, a glacial lake about two hours each way.

King crab and Patagonian cooking

Order centolla, the southern king crab, and Patagonian lamb. Kalma Resto, by chef Jorge Monopoli, is the town’s most creative table, and Chez Manu, on the hill, pairs French technique with local ingredients and a channel view.

History and Antarctica

The Museo Marítimo y del Presidio, in the old prison, tells the story of the town’s penal-colony past. From November to March, Ushuaia is the main departure port for Antarctic expedition cruises.

Good to know

• Season. December to February brings the longest days and mildest weather; winter (June to August) is for skiing at Cerro Castor.
• Layers. Weather changes fast, even in summer; pack a waterproof shell and warm layers.
• Getting there. Fly from Buenos Aires in about three and a half hours, or combine with El Calafate.
• Book ahead. Penguin walks, Antarctic cruises and the best hotels sell out early.

What to pack

• Cashmere travel wrap: a blanket on the plane, a shawl at dinner
• Leather loafers: polished enough for dinner, sane on cobblestones
• Packing cubes: so the artisan finds fit on the way home
• Our full travel collection on ShopMy ↗

Where to stay

A hillside or waterfront lodge for views, or a boutique hotel in town for walkable restaurants and the port. The flight search and live accommodation map below help you plan the rest of the trip.

Frequently asked questions

Is Ushuaia worth visiting?

Yes, for the Beagle Channel, penguins, Tierra del Fuego National Park and as the gateway to Antarctica.

When is the best time to visit Ushuaia?

December to February for long days and mild weather; June to August for snow and skiing.

Can you walk with penguins in Ushuaia?

Yes, on Isla Martillo from roughly October to March, with the one operator permitted to land; book early.

How many days do you need in Ushuaia?

Three to four days covers the channel, the national park and a penguin excursion.

Keep reading

• El Calafate: A Guide to Argentina’s Glacier Town
• El Chaltén Trekking Guide: Patagonia’s Most Beautiful Day on Foot
• Explora El Chaltén: Gateway to Patagonia’s Legendary Peaks
• Córdoba: the Jesuit Block and Güemes antiques
• Underrated Latin America: 22 destinations for your next trip

Some links on this page are affiliate links: if you book or buy through them, Jet Set LatAM may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. This is a researched editorial guide; details, hours, prices and travel advisories change, so confirm before you go.