What to Eat in Oaxaca: Moles, Tlayudas, Mezcal and More
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Oaxaca is often called Mexico’s culinary heart, and a few days here make the case convincingly. The cooking is rooted in Indigenous traditions, ancient corn varieties and a patient love of chiles and smoke. Come hungry, and use this guide alongside our Oaxaca guide.
The Seven Moles (and Then Some)
Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles, though in reality there are many more, and every family has its own version. The classic seven are usually listed as:
- Mole negro — the famous one: dark, complex and slightly sweet, with chiles, spices, chocolate and charred ingredients.
- Mole rojo — rich and brick-red, often served at celebrations.
- Coloradito — a sweeter, lighter red mole.
- Amarillo — thinner and earthy, often used in empanadas.
- Verde — bright with fresh herbs such as hoja santa and epazote.
- Chichilo — smoky, rare and dark, made with distinctive chiles.
- Manchamanteles — the “tablecloth stainer,” fruity and sweet with plantain and pineapple.
Try mole over chicken, in enmoladas, or with a tamal wrapped in banana leaf.
Tlayudas, Memelas and Masa Magic
A tlayuda is a large, thin tortilla toasted until crisp, smeared with asiento (unrefined pork lard) and black beans, then topped with cabbage, quesillo and meat such as tasajo, cecina or chorizo. Some are folded and grilled over coals; all are best eaten in the evening, the traditional tlayuda hour.
Memelas are thick, hand-pressed masa rounds with pinched edges, topped with asiento, beans, salsa and crumbled cheese — a perfect breakfast. Look for empanadas de amarillo and anything made with quesillo, the stringy local cheese sold in wound balls.
Chapulines and Other Adventures
Toasted grasshoppers, or chapulines, are a Oaxacan classic — crunchy, salty and sharp with lime and chile. Market vendors sell them by the scoop, and you’ll also find them sprinkled on guacamole or tucked into tacos. They’re a snack first, a dare second.
Chocolate, Tejate and Sweet Things
Oaxacan chocolate is ground with sugar and often cinnamon and almonds, then whisked into hot water or milk until frothy. Dunk a slice of pan de yema, an egg-rich bread. You can watch cacao being ground in shops near the markets, and the aroma alone is worth a stop.
Tejate is a pre-Hispanic drink made from maize, cacao, mamey seeds and a flower called rosita de cacao, served cool with a pale foam on top. Look for it in markets, ladled from large painted bowls. Afterward, grab a scoop of nieve, the city’s traditional sorbet, in flavors like tuna (prickly pear) or leche quemada.
Mezcal Country
Most of Mexico’s mezcal comes from Oaxaca. Start with espadín, the most widely cultivated agave, then compare wild varieties such as tobalá or tepextate, which can take many years to mature. Sip slowly, often with orange slices and sal de gusano.
Many travelers visit palenques (small distilleries) in the valleys east of the city, especially around Santiago Matatlán. Tours make it easy to see agave hearts roasted in earthen pits and crushed by stone wheels — just don’t drive afterward.
The Markets: 20 de Noviembre and Benito Juárez
Two side-by-side markets just south of the Zócalo anchor Oaxaca’s food scene. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is famous for its smoke-filled grilling aisle: pick raw meat from a butcher, hand it to a grill cook, then add tortillas, salsas and vegetables from nearby vendors to build your own feast.
Across the street, Mercado Benito Juárez is a maze of produce, chiles, cheese, chocolate, mezcal, flowers and handcrafts. Wander with an open mind and small bills. Both markets are at their busiest around midday, when the comedores are packed with locals on their lunch break.
Eating Well in Oaxaca
- Carry cash for markets and street stalls.
- Ask before photographing vendors.
- Pace your mezcal — the altitude makes it hit a little harder.
- Take a cooking class if you want to understand mole beyond the plate.
Ready to plan the meals around the sights? Our three-day Oaxaca itinerary builds in market stops and a mezcal tasting.
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