Cartagena Day 3: Discovering the Lay of the Land
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Our journey in Cartagena continued today with panoramic views, a tour of Getsemani and what should have been an unforgettable meal. By now we’ve learned to ignore the weather forecast, and we’re glad we did. Despite the forecasted thunderstorm, the day turned out to be sunny and hot, providing us with the opportunity to discover some of what this city has to offer.
Here’s the itinerary we had planned for today.
Start your day at Época Espresso Bar, a Getsemaní favorite for specialty coffee and inventive breakfasts. Afterward, take a taxi to Convento de la Popa, perched high above the city. The monastery’s courtyard and chapel are serene, but the real highlight is the panoramic view stretching from the bay to the Caribbean Sea. Always take a taxi both ways — the hill is not walkable.
Back in the walled city, stop for lunch at Casa del Tunel Restaurante Bar, a breezy, open-air inner patio in Getsemaníat.
Afterwards, spend the afternoon exploring Las Bóvedas, a series of colonial vaults now filled with artisan shops selling mochilas, jewelry, hammocks, and handicrafts. From there, stroll past the elegant Teatro Adolfo Mejía, any remaining museums or through Parque del Centenario, a leafy space connecting Getsemaní and Old Town.
Dinner is at Carmen (reservations required), one of Cartagena’s most celebrated restaurants. Reservations are essential, and the experience is worth every bit of planning.
As with our other days here, though, we ended up making several adjustments. Instead of the Convento, we ended up taking an Uber to see the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, a landmark we had missed the day before. The fort offered a glimpse of the city’s history and panoramic views of the city. Plus the kids in us loved spelunking through the tunnels inside the fortified walls.
By now, we’ve also learned why the siesta was invented. Between noon and two, the sun breathes its fiery rays onto the city, casting it into the heat of a thousand furnaces. Only a Gringo tourist would be foolish enough to forge ahead. Determined not to become stereotypes, we retreated into the shelter of a the climate-controlled Mallplaza Cartegena. This mall, unlike the one from yesterday, was spacious and provided ample places to shop while escaping the furnace.
Afterwards we returned to the room for our second (of three) daily showers, then headed off to explore Getsemani. What a gem! Every wall is colorful or adorned with a mural or bomb graffiti. Overhead the neighbors hung paper flags, lanterns or umbrellas. There are craft stores and restaurants and cafes everywhere. It’s like Bat Man Alley and Rio’s Lapa, mashed together and spread out over dozens of city blocks. Compared to Tlaquepaque, which seemed designed for tourists, this neighborhood teemed with authenticity.
Lunch was at Casa del Tunnel, the restaurant we had wanted to visit yesterday. It serves a Caribbean menu in the courtyard of an old Spanish home decorated everywhere with folk art. With several large fig trees shading us, we enjoyed a mostly delicious meal. The ‘Leche de Tigre’ ceviche was flawless. The shrimp empanadas, however, had a greasy crust, as if they had been sitting for awhile before being refried. Overall, though, the restaurant provided a quaint and refreshing stop in the heart of a vibrantly Bohemian neighborhood.
After doing several laps around the narrow streets of Getsemani, we went back to our hotel for our third shower, then walked through old town heading off to our dinner reservation. Along the way, we saw a carnival troupe perform near the Plaza Santa Domingo. We then followed the murallas North to a corner of the old town we had not yet explored for our dinner at Carmen.
Perhaps because of our excellent day or perhaps because of the restaurants’ many great reviews, we arrived at Carmen with great expectations. We’re sorry to say that our experience did not live up to them. The ambiance was inviting enough: we dined in the courtyard beneath a white colonnade and thick trees. The food, however, was underwhelming. The dough on both our pasta and empanadas was too thick and doughy. The raviolis were visibly under cooked. Our fish, on the other hand, was overcooked and covered with a sandy farofa. Dry on dry. Honestly, given the restaurants many glowing reviews, maybe we caught it on an off night. But it was an expensive miss.
But let’s not let one bad experience spoil the bunch. Overall our day was both elevating and indulgent — like the city had given us its grandest vistas and then invited us to touch its craftsmanship with our own hands. Today was a satisfying blend of wonder and delight, the kind that comes from standing above a whole coastline one moment and then losing ourselves in colors, textures, and treasures the next.








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